Jericoacoara, it seems, is like the Holy Grail to Brazilians. Whenever we mentioned we were going to Jericoacoara, or had been, people stood, mouths agog, in envy. For those not in the know Jericoacoara is a hidden gem located about a six-hour drive from Fortaleza on Brazil’s North East coast. It’s only about eight years since this tiny village, which pretty much consists of about six sandy lanes, got electricity and the last leg of the journey to the mecca that is Jericoacoara involves a 45 minute drive by 4×4 truck (or buggy) as it’s still not yet accessible by car.
But despite its size, there is an overwhelming choice when it comes to accommodation in Jeri, so deciding where to stay can be tricky, especially when there isn’t much by way of info on some of the pousadas. Fortunately I came across the best pousada in Jericoacoara, the Agapanthus. A gorgeous, boutique-style hotel, it’s set in the most amazing location, right opposite Jeri’s famous sunset dune.
What makes the Agapanthus a hidden gem and the best pousada in Jericoacoara is that although it’s close to all the action, you’re about a minute’s walk from the beach, it’s on a quiet street which feels worlds away from the party vibe of the neighbouring village ‘centre’ packed with bars and restaurants. In fact the only noise we heard was from some braying donkeys outside.
With just six contemporary rooms the Agapanthus Pousada is quite intimate. It’s a great place if you’re looking for a romantic hotel in Jeri. All rooms have air con and a fan and a fridge. And the shower was one of my favourites of all the places we stayed in Brazil. The pebble-dash floor contrasting against the white tiles and the glass door adding a sense of space and light into the bathroom. The Agapanthus is one of Jeri’s newer pousdasas. Opened in 2010 by Roberta and Mario, a lovely Italian couple (who invited me to be their guest at the Agapanthus) the pair fell in love with Jeri, having visited it three times previously, and decided to make it their home.
Even though it’s ridiculously close to the beach the Agapanthus Pousada also has its own small pool with sunloungers. Perfect as there were days when, in the sweltering heat (that’s my defence anyway), I couldn’t even be bothered to walk to the beach. And of course the views of the Jeri’s sunset beach are phenomenal from the Agapanthus Pousada. Whether you’re enjoying breakfast on the terrace (a good selection of juices, cereal, eggs or tapioca, cakes and bread) or watching people climb it as the sun goes down – local legend claims if you watch the sunset from the top of the dune and make a wish as it sets it will come true.
You’ll find accommodation to suit all budgets in Jeri (don’t be afraid to try and haggle as you may be able to get yourself a further discount). While the Agapanthus Pousada isn’t the cheapest pousada in Jeri it’s not the most expensive either, and it’s great value for money. Sadly we were only able to stay at the Agapanthus for a couple of nights as we managed to coincide our trip with a Brazilian public holiday – something to avoid at all costs as prices rocket and accommodation is scarce.
But of all of the four (yes four) pousadas we stayed at during out eight days in Jeri (everywhere was booked up in advance), the Agapanthus Pousada was definitely the best pousada in Jericoacora, and one of Jeri’s hidden gems, especially given its unparalleled access to the dune.