This summer head to DOK, a Ghent pop-up bar that even has its own beach
I knew that the Belgian city of Antwerp has various cool pop-up summer bars. But I didn’t realise until a recent visit thanks to Visit Flanders that the city of Ghent also has its very own Ghent pop-up bar called DOK. I was told about DOK by one of the locals. True to form this Ghent hidden gem was a bit of a mission to get to from our base, the best B&B in Ghent, which was close to Ghent’s historic city centre. We had to get a bus (or you could get a tram) to Gent-Dampoort bus station. From there it was about a 10/15 minute walk straight along a major main road (there is a bus that runs down it but it wasn’t that frequent so we decided it best to walk) until you reach DOK.
DOK is literally in the middle of nowhere, close to the docks area (see what they did there). Used as a creative space as well as a Ghent pop-up bar, DOK is only open on Sundays. Each week a different artist’s work is exhibited. Throughout August and September, this Ghent pop-up bar also runs a vintage market selling second hand clothes.
As well as the bar area inside, there’s also lots of open space at this Ghent pop-up bar for people to hang out while DJs spin their tunes on the decks. At the front there is a large terrace, decked out with wooden tables and chairs, as well as a play area for kids. Walk round to the back and you’ll find a BBQ (they also have BBQs on Sundays) and my favourite bit of DOK, its beach.
What I loved about this Ghent pop-up bar is that although it’s quite cool (think Dalston/ Peckham type places in London) it isn’t in the least bit pretentious. We were the only tourists there but we were made to feel welcome by the staff and it has a relaxed vibe. DOK also holds events from time to time. During the World Cup it was open for matches and had a tent with a huge screen and deckchairs for people to watch the games. In August it’s holding a couple of film screenings and it also hosts performances and readings
Sadly this Ghent pop-up bar won’t be around for much longer as it finishes in its current incarnation in September 2014. DOK has running for a few years on its current site but this is being turned into apartments from next year. The staff told me the plan is to hopefully make this Ghent pop-up bar mobile so next year it will be in a different place in Ghent each week. Here’s hoping then that this brilliant Ghent pop-up bar doesn’t get docked in 2015.
For more info on Ghent check out visitghent.be
Dine al fresco at Op De Tuin restaurant (the garden restaurant) Amsterdam
I’ve been wanting to go to the Op de Tuin restaurant in Amsterdam for ages. But I’d been waiting for a sunny day so we could dine outside at the Op de Tuin restaurant (it has a cute little outdoor area). With the recent heatwave it seemed like there was no time like the present to check it out, although typically the day we went to eat there the weather didn’t hold out.
Op de Tuin Amsterdam is definitely an Amsterdam hidden gem. Tucked away in a little street in De Pijp Op de Tuin restaurant has a distinct neighbourhood restaurant feel about it. Our waiter who I have a feeling may also have been the owner asked how we’d heard about Op de Tuin, as if surprised we’d wandered off the beaten track.
To whet our appetite a dish of creamy beetroot hummous arrived, served with crusty bread. This gave us time to deliberate over the menu. Op de Tuin means garden and this Amsterdam hidden gem tries wherever possible to use organic ingredients. The menu at the Op de Tuin restaurant changes each month to try and keep dishes seasonal and as fresh as possible.
Sharps decided on the set menu, three courses for €29.50. As I’m not a fan of pastry (the vegetarian main dish was curried vegetables in puff pastry with goat’s cheese) I ordered off the main menu. Up first was my starter. Warm mackerel was marinated in five spices and citrus in a kind of sweet and sour sauce, served with cold pickled cabbage. There were no complaints from me. Sharps’ starter from the set menu was guinea fowl paté with onions and date bread that Sharps said almost tasted a bit like Branston pickle.
I’d chosen fish again for my main course. A huge hunk of soft cod topped with a parsley and anchovy crust, on a bed of garlic and saffron mash with cherry tomatoes, capers and pickled cauliflower. Again the combination of sweet and sour hit just the right note.
Sharps’ dish was slightly less dainty. His poisson stuffed with clove sausage and barley, served with blackened carrots and lime butter sauce was a massive bird. He’d also ordered fries on the side so in effect it was a bit like a posh KFC.
I decided to skip dessert. Sharps’ trifle of cookies, mascarpone with Sambuca and raspberries looked, and tasted, more like a very alcoholic cheesecake. The aniseed flavour of the Sambucca was quite strong.
The service at the Op de Tuin restaurant Amsterdam was friendly and relaxed with not a tourist in sight. There was an older vibe to the place, with lots of couples and over 40′s enjoying a casual, local evening out. I’ll definitely be paying another visit to Amsterdam’s Op de Tuin restaurant. You never know, next time we might even make it out into the garden.
Say cheese and pose for a picture at Alkmaar cheese market, the biggest cheese market in the Netherlands
I love cheese, usually the stronger the better, so on a recent visit to the Netherlands I felt I was long overdue a visit to Alkmaar cheese market in Holland. A whopping 26,000 kg of cheese is weighed out and sent off to be sold every week at Alkmaar, I’m told making Alkmaar is the biggest cheese market in the Netherlands, if not the world.
The biggest cheese market in Holland, and also the oldest cheese market in Holland, began in Alkmaar in 1539. Today Alkmaar cheese market is pretty much run for tourists, it’s Alkmaar’s most famous attraction. But don’t let that put you off checking it out as it’s still fun to watch men and women dressed up in traditional Dutch costume racing around with cheese.
Alkmaar cheese market isn’t year-round. Starting each year in April, it’s held every Friday at Waagplein (the main square) and runs until early September. The action kicks off at 10am when a bell is rung to signify the opening of the market and then the fun begins. First the price of the Gouda is decided per kilo so when the whole cheese is put onto the scales people know how many kilos worth they’re buying.
Each lot of cheese is weighed on a set of scales inside the weighing house. Once it’s been weighed a pair of sturdy men, dressed in traditional costume, pick up the cheese in something resembling a wooden sledge and take it off to be loaded up into waiting carts. I was surprised at just how spritely these guys are. They run pretty fast with the cheese, possibly because it’s so heavy they don’t want to hang around with it. I had to dodge out of the way quite a few times to avoid getting mowed down by them!
Once the cheese is loaded onto the carts the men pick up a new load of Gouda and run back with it to the weighing house to start the process all over again. There are quite a few pairs of men, making their cheese relay races a real spectacle to experience. The cheese on the carts is then ready to be distributed and sold throughout the country. As you might expect the Netherlands used to be home to 120 big cheese factories. Now only two now remain.
To make sure the cheese is of the highest quality there are inspectors who go round and check it. They told me that the outside of the cheese should have no stripes or irregularities on it. To see if the inside is up to scratch they make a hole and pull out a piece of cheese to verify the taste, texture and consistency as there shouldn’t be too many holes in the middle of a Gouda.
I’d read people complaining on TripAdvisor that the Alkmaar cheese market gets really rammed and it’s so busy you end up getting crushed or can’t see anything. I was lucky enough to be allowed inside the main area by the tourist board to take pictures but when we were there everyone in the crowd outside seemed quite content. I didn’t see any pushing or shoving and people all seemed to have decent views of the cheese market in action. We did get there quite early though so if you are concerned about being able to see it’s probably worth getting there before 10am to try and get a prime spot. Another alternative is to go as part of a group or tour. It may cost you a bit more but it does guarantee you access inside the barrier which will give you an advantage when it comes to taking photos (as you can see from my pics here).
Alkmaar cheese market runs from 10am to 12.30pm and if seeing all of the cheese whets your appetite there’s plenty of Dutch cheese available for sale to take home with you. Lining the square are numerous food stalls, many of which sell a selection of weird and wonderful flavoured cheeses. These include everything from nettle cheese to mustard cheese, ginger cheese, wasabi cheese and various herb cheeses.
Located just beside the cheese market, Alkmaar is also home to the Dutch cheese museum. Here you can learn all about how cheese is made and there are rooms that contain cheese memorabilia. It’s also worth noting that the cheese on display isn’t real – so don’t try to eat it.
Seeing all that cheese definitely made me hungry so we decided to stop for lunch at a lovely cafe/ restaurant called Hof van Sonoy. A former convent, this Alkmaar restaurant has a large courtyard and while the lunch menu is pretty basic (sandwiches, soup and eggs in different forms) it’s a great place to sit and chill out on a sunny day. I’d read that you can climb up the imposing tower of the Hof van Sonoy. A quick check with our waiter confirmed this so we headed up its spiral staircase for views looking out across Alkmaar. It’s also possible to hire out the tower for an exclusive private dining experience too.
The city of Alkmaar itself is worth a visit. Easily accessible from Amsterdam (it’s about 30 mins on the train) you can happily spend a day wandering along its canals, soaking up Alkmaar’s relaxed atmosphere. And it’s surprisingly good for shopping too. The Alkmaar tourist board has a walking tour (€2.50) you can pick up from the tourist information office (or I believe you can also download an app) that includes some Alkmaar hidden gems along with the history of Alkmaar’s main monuments and points of interest.
A trip to Holland wouldn’t be complete without the sighting of a windmill and Alkmaar is no exception. You can find a windmill along the river bank close to the city centre. Cheesy it may be but a visit to Alkmaar cheese market and the city of Alkmaar is one of Holland’s hidden gems and makes for an interesting side trip from Amsterdam.
I’d seen Grenache restaurant bandied about in various lists of Manchester’s best restaurants. Grenache restaurant is located off the beaten track in Walkden (close to Salford). To be honest, other than Grenache restaurant there really isn’t much reason to go there. Sadly I was only in the area because I was visiting my mum down the road in St Ann’s Hospice in Little Hulton.
I’m glad I called to book a table as it was a Saturday night and Grenache restaurant was fully booked. Our table for two was located right by the bar. As soon as we sat down one of the owners, Lindsey, came over. She was very helpful, without being too in your face. Lindsey talked us through the house wines, explaining that she had chosen them because she wanted to have a nice house wine even though it cost her more to buy it. She also noticed we had a wonky table and sent someone over to sort it out straight away.
What I liked about Grenache restaurant was that despite it being one of Manchester’s best restaurants there was no pomp or ceremony. The inside of Grenache restaurant reminded me of someone’s house. It felt as if we were sitting in the front room in this cosy neighbourhood restaurant and the tables on the other side of the space, which was quite separate, was the dining room. The rooms were divided by a flight of wooden stairs by the entrance that led upstairs to a bar.
The waiting staff were friendly and accommodating. When I explained that I don’t eat meat or shellfish they checked with the chef and said they could make a special sauce, without chorizo, to accompany my cod. I was told it may affect the balance of flavours in the dishes. I was prepared to take the risk. The other owner also came over to our table to apologise for the delay in service and gave us an ETA of when we could expect our starters.
Fortunately in the interim we had been sidetracked by an amuse-bouche of a vodka martini with lime granita, complete with an olive at the bottom of the glass. I was gutted as I couldn’t eat mine (it had jelly in it) but Sharps delighted in its freshness. I’d opted for the chef’s signature dish of warm mackerel with beetroot, blood orange and goat’s cheese to start. I was in two minds as to whether it sounded bit odd. But the combination of textures worked well together. The citrusy zest of the orange offset the creaminess of the cheese so it didn’t overpower the sweet slithers of al dente beetroot and warm fish. Sharps went for a tried and tested favourite of scallops. As we were in North Manchester the generous sized portion came with Bury black pudding (which he described as pâté-like in texture), sweet pea shoots and slightly salty parma ham.
My food envy reared its ugly head though when it came to the mains. But to be fair I had been warned. Sharps was presented with two huge slabs of medium-rare lamb, accompanied by a deep, thick, jammy beetroot purée and served with carrots, kale and hotpot potato (a stack of potato kind of a cross between dauphinoise and roast) cooked with meat and rosemary. The owner of Grenache restaurant had boldly declared the potato the star of the plate as well as the locally sourced lamb as being the best in the world. Sharps said it was pretty close.
Then came a surprise of a pre-dessert of mini chocolate eclairs. Again I was thwarted as I don’t like cream (or choux pastry) meaning Sharps tucked into both. I can only assume from him closing his eyes, the mming noises and saying ‘naughty but nice’ they were pretty good as they disappeared within seconds. Sharps also managed to fit dessert in at the Grenache restaurant. A chocolate fondant which could easily have been too rich was served with a tangy pineapple sorbet in a crispy sesame seed and sugar case, topped with a pineapple crisp which I could have happily eaten by itself. I wish my visit to Grenache restaurant had been under better circumstances. But its relaxed atmosphere and good food was a more than welcome distraction.
I wouldn’t have ventured to this hidden gem if it hadn’t been so close to St Ann’s Hospice in Little Hulton. I am forever indebted to the staff there for the care and compassion they showed to my mum. But for them to be able to continue helping others they desperately need funding. Here’s how you can make a donation.
How a stay at the Logid’enri, the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent, Belgium, changed my mind about B&Bs
I’ve never been a fan of B&Bs, until a recent stay at the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent, the Logid’enri that is. There’s something about B&Bs that make me feel like I’m staying in my parents house. It’s all a bit too personal. In effect you’re a guest in someone’s home, I feel like I have to whisper and sneak around with Sharps, and I’ve never felt comfortable with it. Plus there’s the possibility of old-fashioned wallpaper, furniture and sheets and the prospect of having to make forced polite conversation from the well-meaning (but often incessant) owners . So when Visit Flanders who were kindly hosting me on a trip to Belgium told me they had booked me into a B&B I was nervous. Thankfully the Logid’ enri, the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent, is nothing like I’d imagined and a real Ghent hidden gem.
You could easily walk past the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent without even realising it. The entrance to the Logid’enri is unassuming, a tiny sign on the front of the white door of an old Ghent mansion. Another reason you’d be forgiven for not spotting this Ghent hidden gem is that the Logid’enri is in Ghent’s less than glamorous Red Light District. Yes there are prostitutes in some of the windows as you walk along the street but don’t let that put you off as you’d be missing out. The area reminded me a bit of Soho in London, with a mix of seedy bars and clubs, next to designer furniture and clothes shops, restaurants and cafes. We never felt unsafe walking back at night, or during the daytime. Our host also told us that the local council is looking into prostitution (which is illegal) in the area and there are plans to try and clamp down and stamp it out.
Besides, once you step through the front door you’re worlds away from the gritty streets. I was surprised by just how chic and modern the interior was. This may have had something to do with the fact that its owners Didi and Natalie are an architect and an artist respectively. The pair have been running the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent for seven years. Chcck in at the best Bed and breakfast in Ghent isn’t until 4pm (until 7pm) but they do allow a window for you to drop off your bags at 11am so you don’t have to carry them round all day. We were met by Didi. He very helpfully gave us the lowdown on the area, with advice on where to go, what to see and his personal restaurant recommendations to avoid any tourist traps, without being intrusive.
Although it has just five rooms at no point during our stay did it feel claustrophobic. In fact it felt more like we were staying in a little boutique hotel. We were in the mezzanine suite, it was well worth the climb up five flights of stairs (there’s no lift) to get to our luxurious room. Spread out across two floors, we had an upstairs lounge area with its own desk, ipod dock and armchairs, that meant Sharps and I had some breathing space. Our room was also decked out with an alcove containing a Nespresso coffee maker (coffee and tea is replenished daily) along with a little welcome bowl of Belgian chocolate and a fridge and mini-bar.
Apart from the ridiculously comfy and large double bed, which made it a struggle to get up for the breakfast spread in the morning, I also loved the bathroom which had a huge sunken tiled bath and a powerful rain-shower. This particular room is definitely one for couples though as the design of the bathroom means you can see right in (and hear everything) so doesn’t leave much to the imagination.
Then of course there’s the breakfast. A lavish affair by Belgian standards there’s a generous choice of fresh and dried fruit, cereal, yoghurt, a bread basket with various types of bread and pastries, mini cakes, cheese, ham, soft boiled eggs. You can even help yourself to Belgian chocolate. Often when writing this blog I’m (happily) proven wrong. After two nights at the Logid’enri, the best Bed and Breakfast in Ghent, I’d be the first to admit my doubts about a stay at this Ghent hidden gem were totally unfounded and we were reluctant to leave. While I now won’t automatically rule out a stay at a B&B whether it’s changed my mind about them on the whole remains to be seen…
For more info on Ghent check out visitghent.be